EveryDrop EDR4RXD1 refrigerator water filter cartridge lying beside an open stainless refrigerator
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EDR4RXD1 Replacement (2026): Fit, Reset & Cost Guide

Guide

The red filter light on your Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, or Amana fridge just came on, and your manual says to buy an EDR4RXD1. So you look it up — and the listings are full of UKF8001s, 4396395s, and suspiciously cheap “compatibles” that may or may not be the same filter. Which part number is really the right one? Is the genuine EveryDrop worth twice the price? And how do you make that red light go away?

Here is the short answer: the EDR4RXD1 is Whirlpool’s EveryDrop Filter 4, and it is the same filter sold under the UKF8001 and 4396395 numbers — those aliases are interchangeable. It is rated for 6 months (or 200 gallons), Whirlpool’s brand pages state NSF/ANSI 42, 53, and 401 certification including certified lead reduction, and the swap takes about two minutes. The red light is a timer, not a sensor — it resets with a button sequence that depends on your fridge brand. Genuine cartridges run roughly $90–120 a year; decent compatibles run under $40. This guide covers which models it fits, genuine vs compatible, the reset steps for each brand, and the real yearly math.

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Table of Contents

Which models it fits

Hand holding an unlabeled EveryDrop-style EDR4RXD1 filter cartridge beside the open filter compartment inside a refrigerator
Match the part number on your old cartridge before you order — the same filter is sold under several aliases.

The EDR4RXD1 is a twist-in cartridge for the Whirlpool family of brands: Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, and Amana refrigerators that use EveryDrop Filter 4. You will find the housing inside the fresh-food compartment — usually in the upper-right corner or behind the base grille, depending on the model — feeding both the water dispenser and the ice maker. If your fridge has a filter on the back wall or a different cartridge shape, you need a different part number.

The confusing part is the naming: the same filter is sold under several part numbers. Any of these on your old cartridge means the EDR4RXD1 is the right replacement:

Interchangeable part numbers for the EDR4RXD1 (representative list, not exhaustive)
Part numberWhat it is
EDR4RXD1Current EveryDrop Filter 4 part number
UKF8001 / UKF8001AXX / UKF8001-750Earlier EveryDrop Filter 4 packaging codes
4396395Whirlpool service part number, same filter
W11256135 / W11311161Whirlpool system codes replaced by EDR4RXD1 (per KitchenAid)
6700-series numbersLegacy codes (e.g. 67002671, 67003523, 67003591, 67003727, 67006474, 67006637)
OWF50 / OWF51 / WF50 variantsAmana and Maytag cross-reference numbers

The fastest check is still the rating plate inside your fridge or the label on the old cartridge itself — if the shape matches and one of the numbers above appears, it fits.

Brand
EveryDrop by Whirlpool
Filter model
EDR4RXD1 (Filter 4)
Fits brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana
Rated life
6 months / 200 gallons
Certifications (brand-stated)
NSF/ANSI 42, 53, 401 — 31 contaminants incl. lead
Replaces
UKF8001, 4396395, W11256135, W11311161
Typical genuine price
~$45–60 (estimate)

Shopping by model number instead of by brand is always the safer path. LG owners can run the same lookup in our LG LT1000P replacement guide, and the tall Samsung cartridge has its own page in our Samsung HAF-QIN replacement guide.

Genuine vs compatible

Top-down view of two refrigerator filter cartridge caps: one with a blue ring band, one plain white
Same shape, different paperwork: the genuine cartridge carries brand-stated NSF listings; most compatibles do not.

Third-party EDR4RXD1 compatibles are everywhere, often at a third of the genuine price. The housings match, the water flows, and most owners report no leaks. We researched and compared rather than guessing, and the honest answer is: what the genuine cartridge buys you is certification.

Whirlpool’s brand pages state that the genuine EveryDrop Filter 4 is NSF certified to reduce 31 contaminants, including lead, pesticides, and pharmaceuticals — the NSF/ANSI 42, 53, and 401 categories — and KitchenAid’s product page states the filter is certified to reduce 99% of lead. Most compatibles carry only the brand’s own claims, which is not the same as a listed certification. If you go third-party, pick a brand that appears in the NSF database at info.nsf.org and be wary of “genuine” listings at impossibly low prices — counterfeit fridge filters are a real and common problem.

Genuine EveryDrop — pros

  • Widest certified claim set — brand-stated NSF/ANSI 42, 53, and 401 including certified lead reduction (per KitchenAid’s product page).
  • Exact-fit housing — built to Whirlpool’s dimensions, so sealing and valve engagement are never a question.
  • Certified in a checkable way — you can look up the claims in the NSF database at info.nsf.org.

Genuine EveryDrop — cons

  • 2–3x the price of compatibles — the certification costs real money every six months.
  • Counterfeits are common — “genuine” multi-packs at rock-bottom prices are usually fakes; buy from reputable sellers.
  • Brand-stated, not lab-verified by us — we researched and compared the published claims; we did not run lab tests.
Genuine vs typical compatibles (street prices are estimates)
Genuine EveryDropThird-party 3-packThird-party single
Price per filter~$45–60~$15–17~$15–20
Rated life6 months / 200 gal6 months / 200 gal (claimed)6 months / 200 gal (claimed)
CertificationNSF/ANSI 42, 53, 401 (brand-stated)Varies: some listed, most brand-stated onlyUsually brand-stated only
Lead reductionCertified (brand-stated)Rarely certifiedRarely certified
FitExactMatches dimensionsMatches dimensions
Best forCertified lead reduction and exact fitBudget rebuy in bulkTrying one before committing

One reassurance: using a compatible filter does not void your fridge warranty. Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, a manufacturer generally cannot void coverage just because you used a third-party part — though a leak caused by a badly made cartridge is still on you, which is another reason to pick a listed brand.

We ran the same genuine-vs-compatible math for Frigidaire’s filters in our WF3CB vs ULTRAWF comparison, and for Samsung’s slim cartridge in our Samsung DA29-00020B replacement guide — the pattern is identical: the genuine cartridge buys you the checkable certification, the compatible buys you the savings.

Reset instructions

Finger pressing a button on a stainless refrigerator dispenser panel with the red filter-status indicator light on
The indicator light is a timer, not a sensor — after every swap, reset it manually for your brand.

The filter light does not reset itself, so do this every time you change the cartridge. First, the swap itself — no tools needed, about two minutes:

  1. Remove the old cartridge. Turn it counterclockwise about a quarter-turn and pull it straight out. A little water may spill — keep a towel handy.
  2. Insert the new cartridge. Unwrap it, insert the end into the filter head, and turn clockwise until it stops. A filter that is not fully seated is the number-one cause of slow flow after a swap.
  3. Flush the dispenser. Run 2–4 gallons through the water dispenser before drinking. The water may look grey or cloudy at first — that is carbon fines and trapped air from the new cartridge, and it clears as you flush.
  4. Reset the indicator light. The sequence depends on your fridge brand:
    • Whirlpool and KitchenAid: press and release the LIGHT button 5 times quickly.
    • Maytag: press and hold the LIGHT and LOCK buttons together until the water filter light flashes.
    • Amana: press and hold the AUTO and DISPENSER LOCK buttons together for about 4 seconds until the indicator flashes.
    If the light will not reset, check that the cartridge is fully seated, then check your manual for your exact model’s combination — button layouts vary by model and year, and these cover the common cases.

If your fridge has no filter indicator at all, Whirlpool’s literature recommends replacing the cartridge every 6 to 9 months anyway — and the official recommendation is every 6 months or 200 gallons, whichever comes first. Do not wait for a taste change.

GE fridges use completely different reset buttons for the same job — our GE XWFE replacement guide walks through the GE sequence step by step.

Cost per year

Two-pack of unlabeled refrigerator water filter cartridges with a calculator, coins and bills on a wooden counter
Two changes a year — the yearly cost is simply the price of two cartridges.

The filter is rated at 6 months or 200 gallons, so a normal household buys two cartridges a year. The yearly cost is just two times the per-cartridge price:

Yearly cost math — EDR4RXD1 (all prices estimates)
OptionPrice per cartridgeCartridges per yearEstimated yearly cost
Genuine EveryDrop (single)~$45–602~$90–120
Genuine EveryDrop (2-pack)~$40–55 each2~$80–110
Third-party 3-pack~$15–172~$30–34
Third-party single~$15–202~$30–40

The gap is real: genuine costs about 2–3 times the compatible per year — roughly $60–80 more annually — for the brand-stated NSF/ANSI 42, 53, and 401 claims, including certified lead reduction. A 3-pack of compatibles covers a full year with one cartridge to spare, which is why so many owners buy them in bulk. And remember: prices move constantly, so treat these as estimates and check the live listing before you buy.

For a second data point on fridge-filter math, Samsung’s slim cartridge runs a similar yearly pattern — our Samsung DA29-00020B replacement guide breaks it down the same way.

Conclusion

The EDR4RXD1 is one of the simplest filters to live with: one part number (with a few aliases) covers the whole Whirlpool family, the swap takes two minutes, and the light resets with a short button sequence once you know your brand’s combination. Genuine cartridges run roughly $90–120 a year for the brand-stated NSF/ANSI 42, 53, and 401 claims, including certified lead reduction; a decent compatible cuts that under $40. Buy the genuine if you want the certified cartridge, buy a listed compatible if you want the savings — and either way, change it on schedule, because a filter you leave in too long is just plumbing.

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